With just a little bit more than 2800 miles of freshwater behind us, we've reached salt water at Mobile Bay. We're currently at the Eastern Shore Marina in Fairhope Alabama for 2-3 days to catch up on internet, supplies and laundry. I've enjoyed the lakes and rivers but it sure feels good to be back on saltwater. Tolkien's missive half applies to me
Legolas Greenleaf long under tree
In joy thou hast lived, beware of the sea
If thou hearest the gull on the shore
Thine heart shall rest in the forest no more
Over the next month or so we'll be exploring the gulf coast and the multitude of estuaries that feed the gulf. We have an excellent guide book for Florida paddling trails and we're looking forward to lots of days in the kayak

Good internet connections continue to be elusive and my skill at working with my blog software is improving at a glacial rate, a number of observations/anecdotes follow and updated logs:



Tin Pan Tech
Cell reception along the loop has been generally poor. We use pay as you go cell phones(tracfone) that are cloned to the Verizon networks. Through Canada we had no coverage at all. Through the mid west we had poor coverage, usually 1 or 2 bars which led to lots of missed and dropped calls. Somewhere in Alabama I recalled that I had purchased a cell phone “booster” just before our departure and tossed it in a locker. So I dug it out and set it up. Because its designed for auto roofs I needed to find a metallic surface to act as a horizontal antenna. An 88 cent cake pan from Wally World zip tied to the roof rack and we've gone from 1 bar to 3 or 4. Now if I can only figure out the mobil hot spot thing so I can access the internet via my lap top with a wireless hot spot wifi connection from the phone!

The cat as an excuse for preferring a wild anchorage to a marina

We've about given up trying to explain to folks why we prefer a secluded anchorage in a natural setting to a night in a marina or on a public dock. The affable young lock master on the Erie Canal probably summed it up the best. “ Why would you want to anchor when you can tie up to a free wall with McDonald's right across the street?” While much of the cruising community might have more sophisticated tastes their perspective about nice marinas and good restaurants vs. anchoring out is somewhat the same.


One of our more important goal is to experience nature on the loop so we're fussy about finding anchorages with as little development as possible. With binoculars and bird guide at hand and a cold beer and a novel to read, we're happy. Those of you that know me don't need to be told that a fishing rod is in the holder ready to cast. Sure we're on a budget and marinas cost money but that hasn't played a real role in our choices. We're now on the rivers section of the loop with marinas costing a dollar per foot of boat length ($24) per night or less, perhaps when we get to the two dollar per foot marinas in Florida that will influence our thinking. While a restaurant meal is a treat (particularly for Libbey who does all the cooking) when at a marina, we're mostly there to resupply, do laundry, stretch our legs and see a bit of the town.


As we get further into the trip we're realizing that perhaps the best part of the marina experience is getting to know our fellow loopers. They're an extraordinarily convivial lot, lots of good stories and information to share, interested in your loop and very supportive-we're going into town would you like to join us?-Having trouble with the marina wifi (yes, usually)?, use our server password is blah, blah, blah.


My friends and colleagues in the long distance hiking community have a mantra about hiking goals and strategies-hike your own hike. The “loop your own loop” approach is well manifested by our fellow loopers with all their varying approaches to this wonderful circumnavigation.


Despite that, rather than sound like the elitist tree huggers we likely are, we've fallen upon blaming our anchoring out preference on Admiral Peary, our cat. Admiral is a one and a half year old kitten and loves to romp around the boat when at anchor. In a marina we feel it necessary to confine him to his crate or the cabin for fear he will jump ship. Some folks seem to think we're being pretty noble giving up the bright lights for our cat's happiness. The real cat lovers accept it as a matter of course.


Is boating outdoor recreation?


As an outdoor recreation planner with a focus on primitive recreation by profession I tend to think of boating in small boat terms, canoes, kayaks and skiffs and tent camping ashore as a big part of the experience. As a small boat cruiser I'm developing a slightly different perspective. We anchor out most nights in a secluded cove and are self contained.


Our boat is equipped with an enclosed cabin, a wheel house with a roof and roll up curtains that come and go quickly as the weather changes. While we don't hesitate to deploy the curtains if its cold or rainy on fair days all canvas is rolled up and the windshields are cranked open.


One of the more striking observations we've noted about our fellow loopers and indeed most larger cruising boaters is how enclosed their boats are kept even in the nicest weather when there are curtains that could be stowed. Lots of cruising boats have little or virtually no outdoor space to relax and enjoy being on the water. Even at anchor or in the marinas folks tend to remain inside no matter how pleasant the weather outside. To us boating is about being in the outdoors, this inside cruising seems more like touring in an RV. Nothing right or wrong about either approach its just interesting to contrast the experiential differences in the different approaches.


Impoundments
Impounded water bodies are generally less aesthetic than natural lakes and ponds. A natural pond nestles in to the land scape and the shore line flows with the geology. There is a naturalness and a readability to it. Impoundments are generally less coherent and sit awkwardly on the land.
As we travel the loop (which of course we're only able to do because of impoundments) it is interesting to contrast and compare how these aesthetic effects manifest themselves. We're now on the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway and the lakes here are relatively new-the dams were built in the early to mid1980's.
Bay Springs Lake in MI is an exception to the “rule”, stunningly pretty and is impounded by a very large dam-its lock lets boats down 80'. Its a deep lake with a very convoluted shore line with hardwoods and sand beaches. Its shipping channel is only obvious at either end of the lake. We anchored there for 3 nights in different coves and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
Queen Lake is less appealing. Shallow with an obvious dredged shipping channel, the lake appears and is purpose built for shipping.
Aberdeeen Lake is also shallow and built for shipping but the even shallower and flatter terrain formed a myriad of back channels that are a delight in a kayak although finding a good anchorage for the Laughing Gull was not easy (bear in mind she only draws 2' of water and we've anchored many times in less than 4')

Shore Support

One of the aspects of leaving home for 10 months is of course managing your back home life while on the water for 10 months. We're lucky to have such a great support team looking after things while we're looping. Daughter Meg is checking on the house regularly. Son and daughter in law Jamie are forwarding mail. My best bud Al shuttled us to Troy and is storing my truck and trailer for the duration. We couldn't do this without them!

We've also just received some great customer support from Seaway Boats, our builder.  When I stepped on bit of grit and managed to crack a hatch cover, I knew just who to call. Skip Wolfe is Seaways Service Manager. I had the pleasure of working with Skip when Laughing Gull was new to sort out some of the inevitable bugs that occur when a stock boat is customized. I simply phoned Skip and a new hatch was waiting for me a few days later at the marina when we arrived. Skip's professionalism and follow up are absolutely first rate. Seaway, give that man a raise!

Day 52 Paducah to Barkley Lake via Cumberland River. Sunny light breeze 85 degrees. Gas and ice at Green Turtle Bay Marina. 250 miles, 35 gallons-terrific fuel economy-the power of slow! Anchored Nickel Cove on Barkley Lake DE 2000 mi

Day 53 Nickel Cove to Kentucky Dam Marina. Laundry, internet, shopping. Borrowed marina truck to Graftonville and Benton for shopping. Take out BBQ for supper DE 2007.

Day 54 (9/26) Kentucky Dam Marina to no name cove in Land Between the Lakes. Sunny hot good swim. DE 2014

Day 55 Cove to Lost Creek LBL. Hot sunny good swim and scrubbed scum off boat hull while swimming. DE 2035

Day 56 Lost Creek to no name cove downstream of Paris Bridge. Gas, ice and groceries-PLSP marina staff guy gave us ride for groceries and tour, gas at 2054 m . Cast netted 4''shad for bait, caught 4lb largemouth bass. DE 2069

Day 57 Back upstream to Lost Creek. Quiet day, good swim, cleaned boat hull again-starting to look presentable. DE 2083

Day 58 Lost Creek to PLSP restaurant for lunch and hike. Met Virginia Webb, Chattanooga, excellent photographer and great volunteer city ambassador. Seriously tempted us to visit Chattanooga but 400 mile side trip doesn't seem viable. Anchored in quiet cove in the state park. Tennessee resort state resort parks are elaborate complexes of hotels, restaurants, conference centers and marinas with rudimentary trails and camprounds(if PLSP is typical). DE 2090Day

59 Windbound. Went back to restaurant courtesy dock for hike around park picnic area and internet access. DE 2092.

Day 60(10/2) Windbound 0 kayaked

Day 61 Wind bound

Day 62 PLSP to Pebble Isle Marina in New Johnsonville. Sunny. Dinner at Marina (cheeseburger and reuben) Nice bunch of loopers, drinks with Karen and Tim on Tika ( a 52' Benneteau Swift Trawler)

Day 63 Marina day. Van to Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park on Pilot's Bluff. Great river view and interesting folk life museum.

Day 64 Van to Camden for supplies. Up river (current becoming more apparent) to big bend and islands below New Johnsonville. Lots of turtles and mussels. Lots of jumping gar. DE 214 3

Day 65 Kayaked around island, caught one 10” white bass. To Thompson Island near Cherokee. Friendly locals in pontoon boat stopped by to chat. Propane tank empty (probably under filled in Grafton, this tank lasted 3 weeks the previous tank ran 4 weeks and wasn't empty when filled)DE 2143

Day 66 To Double Island Sunny and hot to 85 degree. Cut up white bass for bait caught 4 lb blue cat fish DE 2197

Day 67 To Swallow Bluff Island. Sunny and 80 deg.. Strolled around Clifton, bought sun curtain for boat and hamburger for supper. Town has been recently well spiffed up-flowers and fresh paint abound. Caught 20 lb blue cat fish after dark on cut bait. Yielded 6-7 lb fillets, too much fish, won't kill another fish that big. DE2221 (current has reduced speed to 5 mph at 1800 rpm compared to 6.7 in calm water)
Day 68 To Wolf Island in Savanah. Sunny and 70. Cat fish for breakfast and supper. Heavy fog at night. River dropped 1-2' overnight. DE 2243

Day 69 To Pomroy Branch on Pickwick Lake. Sunny and 78. Catfish for breakfeast. Strong current below dam-4mph speed. Good swim DE2265

Day 70 To cove with boat launch in AL. Sunny light breeze, good swim. Last of the catfish for supper (curried) DE 2275

Day 71 To Eastport Marina and back to deep cove on Alabama shore. Kayaked ashore in morning for 3 mile walk on woods road past campground and possible hunting lease. DE 2284

Day 72 To Grand Harbor Marina Sunny light breeze. Docktails with loopers. Ordered phone from Amazon over bad wifi 1 ½ hours to place order. Marina car to Savanah TN for groceries and BBQ lunch DE 2292.

Day 73 To Panther Creek Cove. Spending 2 more days on Pickwick Lake to wait for phone to arrive at marina. Sunny good swim before forecasted cooler weather arrives. DE 2297

Day 74 To JP Coleman State Park MI. Walked 3 miles on park roads. Anchored in cove by park DE 2303

Day 75 To Grand Harbor Marina. Marina car to NPS Corinth Interpretive CTR. BBQ ribs for lunch at the Rib Cage DE 2310

Day 76 To Bay Springs Lake via Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway. Cleaned cockpit and wheelhouse. Slack water canal through woods, BS Lake very pretty with deep coves and sand beaches DE 2345

Day 77 To Bay Springs Marina for repairs (carburetor and control cables) on auxiliary engine. Marina van to East Boonesville for groceries. Anchored out in deep silver maple leaf shaped cove. DE 2359

Day 78 Back to Marina to complete repair (had to wait for parts). Cool and sunny. Morning paddle amongst the deep coves Anchored out ¼ mile from Marina. 2365DE

Day 79 To Queen Lake. Locked down at Whitten Lock an 80' chamber per sonar=third highest single lift lock east of the Mississippi. Queen Lake much less to our taste with a noisy factory and developed shorelines. DE 2384.

Day 80 To Aberdeen Lake. Stopped at Smithville Marina for ice, none available so they loaned us the marina car for a run to Dollar General.They had a terrible tornado 3 years ago that killed 16 people and leveled much of the town

Day 81 At anchor. Long paddle through flooded timber. Miles of very pretty yellow flowers with petal and bud form like daisy in shape. Also water hyacinth becoming prevalent

Day 82 to Columbus Marina. Covered slip welcome with rain in forecast. Marina car to town for minor groceries and lunch at Proffetts Porch-great seafood gumbo and Land Shark beer. Gray light rain

Day 83 Marina Day. Car to town for major grocery restock. Docktails with other loopers

Day 84 Back up lake to anchorage for night. Toured 1855 Waverly Mansion in West Point. Beautiful restoration and excellent interpeter. Cool rainy

Day 85 To Pickensville anchored behind island.

Day 86 To Pickensville Rec Area. Anchor stuck in morning finally able to cleat off and power out. Nice bike ride at rec area, otherwise hangout afternoon on shore.

Day 87 To Pirates Cove Marina. Biked to Welcome Center (replica mansion-very expensive work) and snag boat Montgomery in dry dock. Groceries and Mexican dinner in Aliceville.

Day 88 Marina day. Rainy, computer work

Day 89 Back to Picknsville Rec Area to anchor in heavy rain. Books and phones DE 2482

Day 90 to a back channel 29 mi. south of Bevil Lock at Pickensville. Grey misty day on a mostly wild river. Met Jonathan and Rosa in a 22' C Dory from Melbourne Beach, FL. Bannan curry for dinner (old joke about vegetarian being Indian word for poor fisherman)

Day 91 To back channel just below Gainesville (AL) lock. Misty 70deg. Walked from boat ramp dock at Sumter Landing. Short day, too long run from lock to next anchorage. Poor fishing again, left over steak stir fried with ginger. DE 2527

Day 92 To Rattlesnake Bend 6 mi. north of Demopolis. Warm day light mist and sun. Largemouth bass for supper. Anchored in bayou off channel. DE 2567

Day 93 To Kingfisher Bay Marina in Demopolis. Warm, misty, quick rain shower. Dentist visit for Libbey to have crown re attached. DE 2577.

Day 94 To Foscue Creek in Demopolis. Great and much needed (3 months) hair cut for me by Eady, she and husband Mark sailing Sailvation around the loop, Mark is a country singer/writer, hope to get to hear him play. Groceries at Walmart and BBQ at Smoking Jacks for lunch. DE 2579

Day 95 Back to Rattlesnake Bend. Decided to fish because last day of 7 day AL fishing license. Several small bass, one keeper. Explored lower Black Warrior River. Heavy showers late in the day and night. DE2596

Day 96 To Pritchards Landing mile 162-town unknown. Lock master advised 9' rise in river level projected, appeared to rise about 1'. Longish run at 8 knots( good current, few good anchorages before Prithcards. Rain. DE 2661

Day97 (11/9) To Talawmpa Creek MM 126 above Bobby's Fish Camp. Some sun, no rain, chilly evening-curtains dropped at dark(5pm) Anchorage is very sheltered. DE2697

Day 98 To MM 104.5 nice anchorage inside buoy. Chatted with bass fisherman before departure, nothing biting. Gas and a walk at Bobby's Fish Camp-very rustic and famous for catfish platters. Sunny day, sandstone cliffs along river and a lovely sunset-our first in a while. DE 2719

Day 99 To Horseshoe Bend MM 72. Foggy, saw 2 deer. DE 2757.

Day 100 To Tensas River MM 39. Overcast and rain. First brown pelican.. Libbey baked great banana bread. DE 2791

Day 102 To Twelve Mile Island. 30' tree fouled anchor line during breakfeast. Was able to clear root fouled in anchor davit by releasing line. Nice folks in trawler Leeloo stood by until snag was cleared. Many braided channels, anchored for lunch in back channel. Mosquitos in evening at 60 degrees, biting weakly-deployed screens. DE 2829

Day 103 (11/14) To Mobile and back. City day, heavy commercial shipping development along shore. Tied up at Convention Ctr courtesy dock. Wandered through Church Street and Oakleigh Gardens historic districts and farmers market. Lunch at Wentzels (shrimp and grits, sea food pasta both excellent). Fresh roasted and ground coffee from Serda's. Ice skating rink (fake ice) at Convention Ctr-fun to watch southerners learning to skate with varying degrees of success. DE

Day 104

Cooking Aboard


This is Libbey with my first blog post, about time!  

We have a propane stove with one burner and a grill, a 48 quart cooler, two 20 quart dry food storage tubs and 12 quart spice/bread storage tub.


Cooking utensils are 2 medium and one small sauce pan, a frying pan and 2 twenty-two ounce french press coffee mugs. We also have plates, bowls, cups and glasses (all plastic) and eating utensils (service for 4) and cooking utensils. We also have a collapsible stove top oven and 2 square baking pans but I haven't used them very much yet)


Because we have limited cooler space and are using ice which starts to melt immediately and is usually completely gone in 1-3 days, this is a major factor in food selection and recipes. Block ice last at least twice as long as cube ice, but is only occasionally available.


For the first 2 days after we grocery shop we eat pretty much what we do at home. Steak, chicken, pork or fish grilled, sauteed, or stir fry with fresh veggies or a salad. One major difference is when we are on the boat I cook all the meat/poultry/fish within 24 hours and store it cooked so we don't have to worry about spoilage. So night one we might have hamburgers, I'll cook 4, we'll have 2 for dinner and 2 will go in the cooler and get crumbed into a spaghetti or chili for night 3 and maybe some will be used as an ingredient to added a lunch time canned soup or quesadilla. On night 2 we might grill a couple pounds of chicken, we eat some for dinner and put the rest in the cooler to be used as dinner on night 4, a chicken curry or stir fry and some for lunch in a sandwich or salad.


Unless we have bought more ice all the cooked meat/poultry will be used by day 4. Because ice is readily available at most marinas we can usually keep fresh food cold for as long as we need to. It is often harder to get to a grocery store that has fresh food and is a bit of a balancing act, how much to buy that we can use before it spoils and/or will fit in the cooler.


Because the ice in the cooler is always melting all too often there is water sloshing around in the cooler so keeping items from becoming water logged is an issue. The screw top 1 quart plastic jars are much better than the snap on lids at keeping water out food stored in the cooler. We also buy food items in what I call “hermetically sealed” plastic packaging, block cheese, feta, cooked turkey or pork sausage and sandwich meat. After opening I store them in the screw top plastic tubs.


Of course not all the fresh food needs refrigeration. Onions and potatoes don't need refrigeration and last for weeks. Carrots, turnip, cabbage easily last a week plus with with no refrigeration. Tomatoes peppers, zucchini and mushrooms are also pretty durable and will usually also last for a week if they are kept a bit cool. I try to select at least some fresh fruit that doesn't need refrigeration and doesn't bruise easily, (oranges and pineapple are great). We eat the banana and peaches first before they become bruised mush.


Though we hope to get to a grocery store once every 7 0 10 days, it doesn't always work out. Weather delays, very rural marina, with the advertised grocery store being a gas station mini mart which has lots of soda, beer and chips with a few canned goods and maybe sandwich meat and cheese or a “Dollar General” which has a larger selection of canned goods, and frozen pizzas but no fresh fruit, veggies or meat. Even when we do get to a grocery store the veggie/fruit section is sometimes is very small with limited selection, so we always have canned and dried items on board for weeks that can be turned into a meal when the major grocery store resupply is delayed.


Below are some of our “not much fresh food on board” recipes.


Curry couscous
1 cup couscous
1 1/3 cup water
1 bullion cube (chicken or vegetable)
1 teaspoon curry powder
½ cup peanuts ½ cup raisins­


­Bring water to boil, add bouillon and raisins. When returns to boil turn off heat. Let sit 10 minutes?, til raisins are soft. Bring back to boil, add peanuts and couscous. Turn off heat let sit until water is absorbed. Fluff and serve.


Optional: Honey and/or hot sauce to taste
Substitute: Pecans, cranberries and Moroccan spice
Add: Left over cooked chicken to make a main dish


Chickpea salad


1 can chickpeas (rinsed)
Ham (canned will work) and/or green or calamari olives (feta is great in this salad if you have it)
Sweet onion and/or sweet peppers (red, yellow or orange) and/or cucumbers and/or cauliflower and/or Tomato (chopped fairly small)


Dressing: Olive oil and vinegar or Italian or Cesar dressing


Let marinade in dressing 10 – 15 minutes before serving.


Black bean salad


1 can black beans (rinsed)
1-2 cans mandarin orange (in juice not syrup) Reserve ¼ cup of juice
½ cup pecans (chopped but not too fine)
½ cup sweet peppers (chopped fairly small)
¼ red or sweet onion
1 tbs olive oil
¼ cup of the mandarin juice (or orange juice if you have it)
1 tsp hot sauce


If you have it add cold cooked chicken.


Quesadilla


2 Whole wheat soft burrito or taco shell
Cheese (cheddar, pepper jack) any kind that will melt
Hot sauce


Optional
Left over cooked chicken (cut up small)
Ham (canned is fine)
Peppers (cut up thin)


Put shell in fry pan (med/low heat)
Break ¼ cup cheese into small pieces (or shred) sprinkle on shell
Add ¼ cup chicken, ham or peppers
Cover with second shell
As cheese melts, use spatula to press the shells together
Keep checking the bottom to make sure it doesn't burn (3 – 5 minutes?)
Flip, cook for a few more minutes


Banana Curry


Large onion, sliced
2 bananas, sliced
½ cup vegetable or chicken bullion
½ cup unsalted peanuts
1 tbs curry powder
1 cup on cooked rice


Saute onion until soft, add banana and curry powder cook for a few minutes til bananas are soft, add bullion and peanuts, bring to simmer, cook for a few minutes. Stir in cooked rice and serve.


Chili
1 large onion (chopped)
1 cooked hamburger, (left over from previous meal) or 1 can prepared no bean chili
1 can beans drained (pinto, kidney or back beans)
1 can diced tomato (any kind, I like the spiced ones with onion and garlic, or the chili ready)
1 large pepper, chopped (if you have it)
1 can corn (drained) or 1 cup cooked rice
Chili powder, cumin and hot sauce
Salt and pepper to taste


Saute onion and pepper until they begin to soften, add chili powder and cumin, saute for another minute, add crumbled cooked hamburger (or can of prepared chili) , tomato and beans bring to a simmer. Add corn or cooked rice and hot sauce to taste. It is ready to serve.


Spaghetti


1 can stewed or diced tomato (spiced with onion and garlic if you can find them)
1 med onion, sliced and/or 1 large pepper, diced
1 cooked hamburger, crumbled or 3-4 ounces hard salami, diced
1 tbs Italian herbs
Spaghetti or any pasta (enough for 2)


Cook pasta, drain and put aside
Saute onion and green pepper, til the begin to soften, add crumbled cooked hamburger or salami,, cook for a few minutes, add canned tomato bring to a simmer, add Italian seasoning. Stir. Serve over the spaghetti.


Corned Beef Hash


1 large onion – diced
2 med potato – diced
½ can corned beef – break into small pieces
Salt and pepper to taste


Saute onion and potato in a little oil for a few minutes, add corned beef, cook on medium heat stirring occasionally until potato and onion are done. Works for breakfast or dinner.


Fish Hash
Same recipe as above but cook onions and potatoes until done, add left over cooked fish, stir gently, serve.


Bouchard's Buckwheat Ploy Mix
Great mix because all you need to add is water. Ploys are an Arcadian crepe/pancake. We like them for breakfast topped with fresh or dried fruit and/or nuts.


Pasta Salad
Cooked pasta
Hard salami or pepperoni
Canned artichoke (drained)
Olives (pitted, any kind)
Tomato and/or cucumber (if you have them)
Dressing, oil and vinegar with Italian herbs or any salad dressing.